My wife and I don’t celebrate Christmas, so with high pressure sitting over the Tetons it seemed like the perfect day to explore the alpine with my buddy John Fitzgerald. The thermometer in his car registered -5 fahrenheit when we got out to start skinning at 5:30am, with starry skies and a just-past-full moon overhead. With moonlight sparkling off of a new layer of surface hoar around us, headlamps were unnecessary as we cruised across the flats to the skintrack up 25 Short (so named because the summit is 9975’).
Sunrise from the top of 25 Short was stunning, deep orange spread across the eastern sky and the high peaks reflecting the fiery glow. As usual, Jackson was trapped beneath an inversion fog, creating an odd effect as town and the surrounding neighborhoods became glowing balls under the silver blanket. Buck Mountain stood proud as we skinned the last few feet to our first high point, but our goal for the day was still out of view on the shaded north face.
I’ve been looking at the Newcomb Couloir for a few years now, a 2000’ couloir with an average slope of 55 degrees and a significant pinch partway down. Though it doesn’t extend to Buck’s summit, it still offers up a long pitch of steep turns in a stunning setting. Given its sheltered location on the north side of Buck, and the enormous snowfall we’ve received so far this season (over 200” and it’s still December,) I was hopeful that it would be filled-in enough for a pre-January descent. As it turned out, things were still pretty thin but more of that later.
We worked along the ridgeline of 25 Short to the top of the Turkey Chute, our descent into the South Fork of Avalanche Canyon, and discovered that somebody had skied it the day before, triggering a shallow slab that pretty much cleaned out any weakness in the couloir. So, with no assessment necessary we made fun turns down the chalky bed surface to the canyon below.
Skinning up the South Fork of Avalanche Canyon, we were greeted with shallow powder and unbelievable views of the heavily rimed peaks above. Every time I ski into Grand Teton National Park I am flabbergasted by how huge and steep these mountains are, and how small I am in these surroundings. Looking up at the Newcomb and Bubble Fun Couloirs on Buck, it was immediately apparent that we wouldn’t be skiing them on that day--too thin by a long shot. So, we decided to tour up to the head of the canyon and see what we found.
As we entered the basin below Veiled Peak, we watched a family of 10 big horn sheep cruising across the slopes above us, picking their way up to the base of Veiled. Super cool. We chose to give them some room and skinned away from them, contouring around to the ridgeline at the crest of the canyon and some fun lines that we had seen from below. Working our way up the ridge, climbing between huge rime formations on the rocks, we landed ourselves at the top of some of the steepest lines I’ve ever considered riding.
Not super long (~800’?), but rolling to about 60 degrees, the lines we chose had perfect, firm powder in them and a beautiful runout to thousands of feet of riding down the canyon and back to the truck. With the sun shining and still air, we had a ball carving fast turns, outrunning the sluff and maching out onto the fan below.
On our way down the canyon, racing eachother in and out of rock gardens, we decided that the best plan would be to climb back up to the top of 25 Short and finish up down the frontside powder runs. So, (despite heavily questioning our decision once we were breaking a bootpack back up the Turkey Chute,) we eventually reached the top of 25 Short for a second time and took a much-needed lunch break in the sun. We watched a group of 5 skiers slowly working their way through the rocks on the ridge as we munched--looked like they were a bit over their heads--and then opened up 3000’ of huge turns on a perfect bed of surface hoar over shallow, fast powder. Unbelievable finish to a really fun day of exploring.
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